Backpacking the West Coast Trail 2019

Saturday, August 10th

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Todd climbs a ladder from the Logan Creek suspension bridge on the West Coast Trail Wednesday, July 31, 2019, in the Pacific Rim National Reserve on Vancouver Island, British Columbia, Canada. The maps lists the trail as 75KM. It took us seven days and six nights. We entered the trail at Pachena Bay and traveled south toward Gordon River.
Backpacking generally involves hiking on trails with everything you need on your back. But on the West Coast Trail your hands do more of the walking! There's climbing and descending numerous ladders, walking over bouncy suspension bridges, zipping over rivers, creeks and canyons in cable cars, taking ferry boats and managing your hiking time based on tidal charts.
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Northbound hikers head toward Carmanah Creek on the West Coast Trail Tuesday, July 30, 2019.
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Todd pulls us over the Klanawa River in one of the many cable cars on Sunday, July 28, 2019.
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Todd crosses Logan Creek on a suspension bridge on Wednesday, July 31, 2019.
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The First Nations trail-maintenance crews sometimes used local resources to make the West Coast Trail passable like this staircase seen on Wednesday, July 31, 2019.
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And, they definitely have a sense of humor as seen Saturday, July 27, 2019.
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Maggie flies over Cullite Creek in a cable car Wednesday, July 31, 2019.
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Todd changes from sandals to hiking boots after fording Carmanah Creek instead of taking the cable car Tuesday, July 30, 2019.
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Many mud bogs offered drier paths like this one Wednesday, July 31, 2019.
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But sometimes, there were no options like this backpacker discovered on Wednesday, July 31, 2019.
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Here's a cool way to get through a little cleaner and drier on the West Coast Trail Wednesday, July 31, 2019. Then again, some of these were slick as ice!
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One of Carl Edgar Jr's dogs waits for a ferry ride across the Nitinaht Narrows Monday, July 29, 2019.
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Todd and Penny board the ferry from the Gordon River Access trailhead to Port Renfrew on Friday, Aug. 2, 2019. This is the only way to get to/from the southern-most trailhead of the WCT.
The novel modes of backcountry travel enhance the unique beauty and remote nature of the Pacific Rim National Reserve on Vancouver Island, British Columbia, Canada.
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Todd adjusts his boots seated on a new, long boardwalk after the Nitinaht Narrows ferry crossing and hearty meal at the Crab Shack on Monday, July 29, 2019.
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While there is very little elevation gain and loss, some ups and downs were in your face like this corner of steep roots we climbed on Monday, July 29, 2019.
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The West Coast Trail's unique natural breakwater near Cribs Creek showed off its variable geology during our longest hiking day of almost 22KMs Monday, July 29, 2019.
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This knot helps climb a slanted boardwalk on Monday, July 29, 2019.
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Sandstone gives solid footing after passing through Tsusiat Point Monday, July 29, 2019. This walk-through is accessible with a tide less than 2.1 meters.
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We start our Sunday, July 28, 2019, with ladders from the Darling River campsite.
How many backpacking trips include marine life? We saw grey and humpback whales, sea lions, river otters, Pacific harbor seals, Dungeness crab, sea anemones, rock crabs, hermit crabs and mussels. But strangely we didn't see one seastar.
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Sea lions and gray whales entertain us during our first lunch break near the ninth kilometer mark on Saturday, July 27, 2019.
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A feisty rock crab is ready for a fight Thursday, Aug. 1, 2019.
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Green sea anemones blossom in a unique natural breakwater tide pool near Cribs Creek on Monday, July 29, 2019.
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Mussel Beach dries out at low tide on Thursday, Aug. 1, 2019.
We saw plenty land-based animals, too. Unfortunately, or fortunately, I didn't photograph the cougar who ran in front of our bus on the drive from Port Renfrew to Bamfield. It was the first mountain lion I've ever seen in the wild. I was happy to be inside the bus.
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One of two young black bears keeps its eyes on us Saturday, July 27, 2019. More bears and their scat were spotted down the trail. Luckily, only black bears are known to inhabit the Pacific Rim National Preserve. But I would have been happy with panda bears. Or a sloth.
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Fresh wolf tracks dot a beach Monday, July 29, 2019.
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A yellow-spotted millipede or Harpaphe Haydeniana crawls along the West Coast Trail Sunday, July 28, 2019. I learned these cool creatures can roll into a ball and produce toxic, hydrogen cyanide for self defense.
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A western terrestrial garter snake hangs out on the West Coast Trail on Thursday, Aug. 1, 2019. The Pacific Rim National Reserve only has non-venomous snakes.
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A solid white banana slug crosses Todd's path Saturday, July 27, 2019. We later saw an all black banana slug. A Stevie Wonder song came to mind.
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Possibly a silver-haired bat saves me from mosquitoes near the Darling River campsite food lockers on Saturday, July 27, 2019.
The overall beauty of this rugged land makes for a spectacular backcountry treat.
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Tsusiat Falls crashes to the beach near its namesake campsite on Sunday, July 28, 2019.
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Inside, looking out of the warm waters of Tsusiat Falls to wash off two days of the West Coast Trail mud Sunday, July 28, 2019.
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I get slammed with a heavy shower under Tsusiat Falls Sunday, July 28, 2019.
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The marine layer creates an ethereal setting on Sunday, July 28, 2019.
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Low tides and unique rock formations make the West Coast Trail a stark sight to behold on Tuesday, July 30, 2019.
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A couple of West Coast Trail backpackers take a quick bath in Walbran Creek Tuesday, July 30, 2019. We forded this creek closer to its shoreline delta. The other option is to use the cable car in the background.
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An inland section of the West Coast Trail shows off a different side Monday, July 29, 2019.
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The Carmanah Lighthouse is seen as we near the Carmanah Creek camp site on Monday, July 29, 2019. We clocked almost 22KMs this day.
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The West Coast Trail's unique path sometimes follows the beach like this section around Tsusiat Point near kilometer 27 Monday, July 29, 2019. Todd called hiking on sand a, "different kind of hard." The sand blasted our calves. Inland trails took its toll on our brains. Every step inland required a chess-match-like strategy.
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Backpackers take the beach trail toward Tsusiat Point which is accessible with a low tide of less than 2.1 meters Monday, July 29, 2019.
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We timed the tides correctly to walk through the Owen Point cave Thursday morning, Aug. 1, 2019. This cave is passable at a low tide of 1.8 meters or less.
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I found the boulders so much fun! This is between Owen Point and Thrasher Cove with a low tide less than 2.4 meters on Thursday, Aug. 1, 2019.
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Todd exits the Owen Point cave Thursday, Aug. 1, 2019.
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The sun sets on our first night on the West Coast Trail at the Darling River camp site near kilometer 14 Saturday, July 27, 2019. I built camp fires on our first and last nights on trail.
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Sometimes one can feel lonely on the West Coast Trail, like Todd rounding a corner on Thursday, Aug. 1, 2019. The solitude, however, is priceless.
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We witness the power of water on the beach trail to Owen Point on Thursday, Aug. 1, 2019.
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A small waterfall cascades over moss-covered rocks Thursday, Aug. 1, 2019.
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Water played a main character on the West Coast Trail like this stream crossing Saturday, July 27, 2019..
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Small leaves grow from a log Wednesday, July 31, 2019.
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Trudy and Blaine take a break along the West Coast Trail Saturday, July 27, 2019. This is Blaine's second WCT through hike. He previously hiked it with his son going northbound. They traveled mostly with us heading southbound.
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A jetliner streaks high above the Pachena Point Light Station near kilometer 10 Saturday, July 27, 2019.
Known as the "Graveyard of the Pacific," the West Coast Trail is the final resting place of more than fifty shipwrecks. Remnants can be found along the trail. The trail served as a way to aid and evacuate shipwreck survivors.
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The Michigan's boiler sits near Michigan Creek on Saturday, July 27, 2019. The creek is named after the wooden steamer which ran aground here in 1893.
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Ghosts of shipwrecks past can be found along the West Coast Trail as seen on Tuesday, July 30, 2019.
Communication lines were installed along the trail. Some mounting brackets remain on trees. Defunct donkey engines and cables have also been abondoned.
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Glass insulators are signs of the former communication line used along the West Coast Trail Monday, July 29, 2019.
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An old donkey engine sits near the West Coast Trail's highest point of 213 meters Friday, Aug. 2, 2019. This is a few kilometers from the Gordon River Access trailhead which would be our exit.
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Loops of heavy cable are seen Friday, Aug. 2, 2019.
One particular treat is the "Crab Shack." This backcountry restaurants greets backpackers on the south side of the Nitinaht Narrows where travelers must board or land after a ferry crossing. This was one less meal we had to carry. Delicious and a much welcomed respite.
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The Crab Shack's lingcod and loaded baked potato are about to go down for lunch on Monday, July 29, 2019.
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A $12 (CAD) Stanley Park Trail Hopper IPA is worth every penny in the middle of backpacking the West Coast Trail Monday, July 27, 2019.
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The Crab Shack at the Nitinaht Narrows ferry crossing gives backpackers the opportunity for freshly cooked meals Monday, July 29, 2019.
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The freshest Dungeness crab can be had at the Crab Shack at the Nitinaht Narrows ferry crossing Monday, July 29, 2019.
And, for some odd reason, there's an old motorcycle on the trail.
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Mother Nature slowly consumes this old motorcycle on the West Coast Trail Saturday, July 27, 2019.
You can see Mother Nature reclaims her rightful place.
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Here's why we had a little detour Friday, Aug. 2, 2019.
Mother Nature also showered us with spectacular rains; a rarity for July and August in the Pacific Northwest.
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Todd surveys the low tide after the previous night's heavy rainstorm and high tide which we endured at the Thrasher Cove camp site Friday, Aug. 2, 2019. High water and wave action came up to the log immediately to the left of the tent in the middle of the night. I didn't sleep between midnight and 2:00 a.m. as the sound of surf pounding the beach next to us had me on edge.
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The sun shines through thick clouds after a night of heavy rains at the Thrasher Cove campsite Friday, Aug. 2, 2019.
Many of the same people we met at each campsite became our trail family. We heard numerous languages and met people from all over the world. Backpackers came from Los Angeles, San Francisco, Vancouver, Victoria, Edmonton, Alberta, Australia and Germany to name a few places. The coolest thing was women slightly outnumbered men! I was proud to see REI's #ForceOfNature campaign influence so many strong, independent women.
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Missing a few of our West Coast Trail family in this group photo at the Renfrew Pub in Port Renfrew, British Columbia, Canada, on Friday, Aug. 2, 2019. After spending what turned out to be almost 100KM with the same backpackers, you become friends with those around you. Folks in this photo are from Seattle, Los Angeles, San Francisco, Vancouver and Germany.
This trip is smartly listed as strenuous, difficult and only for experienced backpackers. Your best reference is "Blisters and Bliss" by David Foster and Wayne Aitken. But my most reliable source was trail partner Todd Cleland. He's so well organized, I'm surprised to have recorded so many successful backpacking trips in the past. I initially met Todd through his daughter Valerie with whom I taught and guided at REI's Puget Sound Outdoor School. It turns out, Todd and I both row at the Pocock Rowing Center in Seattle. Huge thanks to him for making this trip so memorable. And, much appreciation for the stewards of the land: the Huu-ay-aht, Ditidaht and Pacheedaht First Nations people. These three nations have long used the trails and paddling routes centuries before ships reached this beautiful Pacific Northwest rain forest. They continue taking care of the land which cares for them.
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Todd and Kevin are seen here at the Gordon River Access trailhead after completing a southbound trek of the West Coast Trail on Friday, Aug. 2, 2019, in the Pacific Rim National Reserve on Vancouver Island, British Columbia, Canada. Despite it being listed on the official map as 75KM. I recorded 91.4KM, or 56.77 miles.
Happy trails.
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Backpacking the West Coast Trail 2019

Happy trails.